Back to the May holiday weekend blogging. Better late than never!
This post takes in the whole of the first full day in Nashville, but really, it's focused on one thing: the Grand Ole Opry. I had bought us tickets way back when, not even knowing at the time who would be performing, because I thought it would be a fun, touristy thing to do. Something to say we'd done. It turned out to be a true highlight of the trip. I'd honestly, happily go back.
But we'll get to that. First, the rest of the day that was.
It was a day without rain for us. I think it may have rained overnight there, but the day went from overcast to relatively sunny by the end of it. We all got up a little late, which is surprising for me, and made our way to a nearby Starbucks.
It wasn't until lunch time that we ventured out for real in the car. First stop: the farmers market!
I love a farmers market. I love seeing all the amazing produce that I would dearly love to get my hands on and see what I can make from it. Late May in Tennessee means plenty of good stuff already in the stalls. And there were fun other things to see and browse as well. I was tempted to get a Hug a Farmer
tshirt but for the designs on the backs of them. Van got a fine cutting board, and so did we. And there was lunch as well - vegan tacos were my choice - not to mention the small chess pies
we bought and then ended up not eating until we got home to Pasadena. The market was a terrific place to wander round.
From there it was a little jaunt around town, crossing the main drag, Broadway, and saying a collective no thank you to the idea of wandering among the crowds and tourist trap looking places. Not our scene, but clearly Nashville in parts is southeastern Las Vegas mixed with Bourbon Street. I wonder how many locals go down that way.
In the wake of our trip to New England, Conrad and I had been talking about how many state capitals we had visited and how many state capitols we had seen. Nashville and the Tennessee State Capitol became the latest for each. We parked below the Capitol, across from the handsome state library building,
then climbed up
and wandered around the outside,
taking photos.
Yep, look at them. That's how you can tell we're all of a trio!
And oh, how those magnolias smelled so lovely when you got up close to them!
It wasn't seeing much of Nashville, I know, but it was low key, and we enjoyed it. Besides, the big adventure was going to be an evening one.
The Opry, for many years, had a home in downtown Nashville, but that is no longer the case. I had thought when I saw on a map that it was now located in a big entertainment and shopping complex well outside of the city center that this was a recent development, a Disney theme park happening. It turns out, however, that the current home of the Opry is about 50 years old. Facelifted since then, to be sure, but the move wasn't a recent one. It is a little Disneyesque, though. Nice view of the city as we crossed the river north of downtown.
I tell you, though, I don't think I'd want to have to drive around or commute in and out of Nashville on a regular basis.
We had reservations at Old Hickory Steakhouse in the massive Gaylord Hotel complex. We actually let Conrad off to check in for the reservation while Van and I attempted to find the parking we'd paid for. And then it was quite the hike to the hotel entrance and through the building to find the steakhouse. Conrad told us the host stand staff at the restaurant were VERY understanding of that. Happily! The steakhouse was set inside an enormous, glassed-in atrium.
A somewhat tropical setting. We ordered cocktails
and shared bread
and a HUGE baked potato,
and each of us had a steak.
The food was fine, but I felt that service was where the restaurant really shone. True to their word, they got us through the meal well in time for us to head over to the Opry (along with other diners), having just enough time to grab a photo or two outside.
We headed in and took our seats.
And you know, they were pretty darn good seats, I have to say.
One thing I did not know about the Opry: it's not simply a venue. It's a century-old radio show that is broadcast live. The show is two hours long, including an intermission, and it runs smoothly. Each performer gets two or three songs and that's it. If you don't like one performer, well, the next one will soon be on. The Opry brings in new talent, has some returning acts, and also features members. The members are an exclusive group of artists who are elected by peers and who then have an obligation to perform multiple times a year. From what I gather, they also can appear any time they like, which goes to explain why the schedule for the night was slightly different than what we saw. Here's who performed along with some thoughts:
Opry Square Dancers - they opened the show and came back out again after intermission. Fun energy.
Mark Wills - a member of the Opry. I had never heard of him, but I barely follow country music, so that's no surprise. I liked his set.
Connie Smith - a member of the Opry. A legacy act, in her 80s, and what a lovely, rich voice she has. Reminded me a little of Patsy Cline. Conrad knew who she was, I think.
Zach John King - making his Opry debut. He was fine. Didn't seem the strongest singer. His big hit is about drinking, and between that and the bro sort of thing that entails, it was not my favourite of the night. Not at all bad. It was interesting to hear in his one song how rap has influenced current country music.
Jon Walmsley - making a return after decades. Apparently he was an actor on The Waltons. His set felt more bluesy than the others. It didn't feel like the audience enjoyed him as much.
John Conlee - a member of the Opry. A legacy act. His music sounded exactly like the sort of thing my parents would listen to. He invited us all to come to his church the next day and sang a song that sounded like an unironic ode to women being housewives. Good voice, but not for me.
Peytan Porter - making a return, and not her first return. Her thing seemed to be country but don't put her in a box. Hints of rap in one song. Not a strong voice live, but she was animated. Not sure what to make of her in hindsight.
Steve Earle - a member of the Opry. This was the surprise on the bill, and a welcome one. His second song was a duet with his sister, and his third and final song was Copperhead Road, which was awesome to hear live. Really thrilled to hear him.
Ricky Skaggs - a member of the Opry and, based on him and his accompanying musicians closing the show, the headliner. A name I knew but not music I knew. He's on the bluegrass side of things. His patter was enjoyable, and so were his songs.
I know I'm not entirely complimentary about one or two of the performers, but the whole thing worked so well. Different interpretations of country music, a little taste of each. Young and old. Reverence for the institution. An appreciative audience. I would enjoy going again. My gosh, can you just imagine a Christmas show there? I'd dearly love that.
We headed to the gift shop like everyone else and then bought nothing. Instead it was back to the hotel and the hotel bar where we chatted with Nate, the bartender, and he let us try drinks we was working on for a new menu. I had the Track and Field, a spin on a mint julep.
I think he was a little let down when I told him that it tasted like Christmas because of the noted of chocolate and orange - he was going for a summer sipper, not winter. But it was good.
Drinks done, it was off to bed. We had big plans for the next day and some driving to do!
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