Sunday in the UP

I don't think this will be a long one in terms of narrative, but there will be plenty of photos.  I'm writing it on Sunday night and posting it on Tuesday as I make my way back home to Pasadena.  A Sunday of driving and sightseeing in the Upper Peninsula.  Pure Michigan.  Pure beauty.

A late start to our morning, but at last we were out the door of the hotel and in the car, and before you know it, we were in Munising. 

A small town, barely 2000 people there (if that!).  We stopped into a little coffee and book shop for a modest lunch,

and then poked in a store

and saw one little corner of the town before wandering down to the lakefront. 

We could have booked onto a tour boat

to go see the Pictured Rocks, but no, we opted to just go see what we could by driving into the National Lakeshore instead.  Still, it was a gorgeous day on Lake Superior!

First stop, Miners Castle. 

A cool formation, not overrun with folks, happily.  We got some great shots there. 

The water was stunning.  After that, it was on to Miners Falls,

another easy walk to see, and a beautiful sight.  More of a waterfall than I expected, to be honest.  Impressive.

The last stop was not in the park but west of Munising, near Christmas.  The Bay Furnace, the ruins of an old furnace operation right on the lake shore. 

We stopped to admire it, and I got to go down to the water edge

and touch the lake.

We noticed on our drive and walking just how green everything was. 

And also how there were spring flowers in abundance:  forget-me-nots,

violets,

trilliums. 

So fantastic.

I have an odd relationship with the UP because of a long in-law history that has ranged from fine (right now) to very not fine (18 or so years ago).  Today, though, this part of the world really showed itself off marvelously!

And then we came back to the hotel and had a good meal in the dining room overlooking the water.  Pork shank for me!

a drive to Marquette on Christmas Eve

Ah, it was good to escape for a while.  To leave Escanaba behind, drive out the fog that has the whole town, the whole county, socked in. 

Get away from the boredom of sitting in the hotel while Conrad was going through his mother's personal effects.  It's been a sad, dull, awful week, truthfully, and any change in that was welcome.

We had no family obligations today, nothing to do with his Conrad's mother's things once we had dropped some boxes off at his sister's (and managed to do so before her household was awake).  Conrad and I went to a local diner for breakfast, then to get some groceries to function as our Christmas Eve meal (and likely bites for tomorrow night given that Christmas will be a mid-afternoon family get-together with frozen pizzas), then to Starbucks, then out of town.

I haven't been to Marquette in ages.  I was commenting to Conrad last night how funny it was that after all these visits where we kind of sit around in Escanaba at his family's beck and call, none of them wanting to venture out of town, resulting in me telling him that we should just say to them that we are going on an adventure and that we will see them at dinner, that after all that (run-on sentence, sorry), we do an adventure the week we're here for his mother's funeral.  But thank goodness we did.  Marquette is a cute little college town.  20,000 people on the shore of Lake Superior. 

Where Escanaba has a hollowed out downtown, a ghost of what it was decades ago, Marquette has some life to its downtown.  Yes, it's larger.  Yes, there is a university there.  And yes, they've managed to keep things feeling vital.  It's attractive, too, built on hills

on the lake shore, some handsome old homes and fine churches and excellent older commercial buildings. 

I'd be happy to go back.

We arrived late morning.  The fog lifted about two-thirds of the way to Marquette, though there wasn't sunshine there.  It's not going to be a white Christmas in this part of the Upper Peninsula, alas.  45 degrees, cloudy, damp-feeling today.  We parked at the lakefront and strolled briefly, taking a few photos, then parked downtown and began browsing stores.  Our big target was the good bookstore in town, Snowbound Books,

but we managed to find mementos and some treats in a few others, including a really nice little wine and cheese shop, Everyday Wines, that has provided us with the centerpiece for tonight's evening in at the hotel.  Lunch, meanwhile, was at Donckers, a sandwich that was already the freshest thing I've had in days thanks to the avocado and roasted peppers on it.  So welcome.

Back to the hotel after our poking in stores was done.  About fifty miles from Escanaba, the fog kicked back in, and now we're here in our room, looking out on thick whiteness obscures the lake just below.  I've made a cocktail, I'm writing this and some postcards, and we'll settle in to make the most of this unexpected, unwelcome Christmas.

lunch in Marquette

In for a penny, in for a pound - let me get at least one more blog entry done this morning before I pack Conrad off to swimming.

It was a week ago that Conrad and I lazily got up at about 9:15, had breakfast, showered and dressed, and headed off with his Mom to the north shore of the UP. We didn't have much time allotted for seeing Marquette, alas. What I saw of it left me the impression that it's a city that has cared for its history well, and that it's really a neat college town (it is the home of Northern Michigan University).

We found a pasty shop, made our purchases, and headed to a lakeshore park, Presque Isle (they pronounce "Isle" the English way, BTW). There we sat enjoying the warm noon-hour, deeply content with the meaty pies. We sat side by side at a picnic table so that we could appreciate the view together.


One thing caught our eye on our way back through town to get back to Escanaba - the Superior Dome on the NMU campus. An interesting looking structure. As we subsequently drove through a neighbourhood with businesses geared toward campus, I was left thinking that campus life there might be pretty decent, in fact.