Chicago, quickly

Wednesday morning I did not head to work, no.  It was Burbank Airport for me. 

A flight to Denver, and then a flight from there. 

Final destination:  Chicago.

Look, I love Chicago.  Yes, I was a little tired and kind of peeved

by the transient person smoking on the Blue Line, but I love Chicago.  I always appreciate any chance to visit.  But one day of meeting (that could have been a Zoom!)?  Come on.  Make my long trip worthwhile.

Enough griping, though.  I am in my favourite USian city, far and away.  What even comes close?  Nothing.  And how is this for adding to that feeling:  a welcome bowl of junk food in my hotel room. 

I shan't say how much has been devoured already.

Yesterday morning, after a choppy night of sleep, started out with a good walk with a friend. 

Chicago was kind of socked in, and we had a lot to catch up on, so I didn't grab photos, sorry.  But a welcome walk after a day on a plane.  I put on my official bow tie (insert eye roll emoji),

and headed off for the meeting.  We were done by 3:00.

And then it was a relaxing evening.

I met a former boss of mine for dinner at Purple Pig. 

It was nice to see him, but bittersweet.  We all diminish with age, I know.  I'll leave it there.  The restaurant - his suggestion - was unfortunately loud, but the food was good.  I savoured the confit turkey leg,

and I can only wish that my US Thanksgiving turkey in two weeks will be as tender.  And then back to the hotel with me to grab a boulevardier at the hotel bar and call it a night.

I can't wait to go back to Chicago, for longer.  Please.  But I will be glad to be home as we draw closer to the holidays.

pairing wine with Mexican food

Last year, at the Frontera Farmer Foundation dinner, Conrad and I and the rest of our table successfully bid on a prize at the silent auction. In fact, we’d sort of managed to win prizes in past years, which is how we’ve enjoyed cocktail parties in the Bayless’ backyard. This time, however, we opted to bid on a different prize. And so it was that yesterday, after weeks of trying to set it all up, we were at Frontera Grill for a private group wine pairing instruction session, to be followed by dinner in the restaurant.

The whole group of us enjoy food and wine – most of us had been to at least one of the wine apiring dinners before. We all are huge fans of Frontera, and more specifically, we’re all huge fans of Jill Gubesch, the sommelier. Jill’s personality is bright and friendly, and she really knows her stuff. Wine with Mexican food? Oh heck yes. Go there, put yourself in her hands, and enjoy some terrific pairings! The event promised to be quite good.

Conrad and I arrived at Frontera

around about 5:10 yesterday, a little too early for our wine-pairing and dinner at Frontera Grill. Given time to kill, and having bumped into Jim and Dianne, we went round the corner to enjoy a couple of lemonades with them, sitting outside Xoco. When we returned to the restaurant, we were promptly led through it to the elevator to head upstairs. We'd been in the Library Room and demo kitchen before, but never with such a small, intimate group. We didn't know quite what to expect. I actually had wondered if it would be as informal, as casual as the cocktail parties – we would stand around, chat, taste a few glasses, munch on a bit of food. Instead, we arrived upstairs to find a table fully set with six glasses at each place,

information sheets, and Jill and two colleagues putting the finishing touches on things.

We greeted Jill, Conrad and I gave her a bottle of a BC wine we’d tried last weekend in Vancouver, and then took our seats with Jim and Dianne, Bob, Glen and Sue, and Susan and Andrew. At first we were curiously quiet, listening,

like kids feeling out a new teacher at the start of a school year. It didn’t take too long, though, before we were freely chatting in between sips. Though we had spit buckets, I admit, not one of us dumped anything!

Jill started us out with the Ceviche Fronterizo, the house ceviche of tuna.

We each had a small dish, and there were baskets of tortilla chips on the table for eating along with it if we chose. She had two wines that she felt were great matches, but she also suggested we try two others to understand how, good as they may be, they weren’t matches for the tartness and other aspects of the ceviche. A Champagne went best with it, in my opinion, but the suggested Riesling was also a good match. The marvelously floral Spanish white (and here I have to plead that not only did I not bring home the information sheet – I will happily rely on Jill’s suggestions when next I dine at Frontera or Topolobampo – I can’t pull all the names from the restaurant’s online wine sheet since the document keeps crashing both my browser and Adobe Reader) was wonderful on its own but not as good with the fish. The rich red? Turned bitter. Drink what you like, in other words, but some things really do make better sense together than others.

We moved from there to a green pipian. Because they knew we had a meal ahead, they served us dishes of the sauces along with the chips and some fresh corn tortillas. Jill explained that we wouldn’t get the full sense of the pairing because we wouldn’t have the protein and other components of a complete dish, but we would understand the sauce and wine together at least. The pipian was better suited to the floral Spanish white, though I actually rather liked it with the Riesling. In fact, I came back to that Riesling more than once (and had a re-fill), and found it was a good partner for what we tried. Jill thought in part it might be the cooling temperature of the wine, and that’s reasonable, I think. I still liked it. Oh, and the pipian? I was bantering with a couple of the others about what fish it would go well with, though we all agreed we’d love it on some eggs!

Up after that was a more straightforward chile sauce. Guajillo? Chilaca? I can’t recall now – I do recall Jill showing us some different chiles,

having us smell one of them, and her explaining different ideal matches. Conrad found the chile sauce a bit too hot, though it wasn’t really scorching. I was eating it by the spoonful, if that gives any indication. I also liked the Riesling with it, though I also thought the Topolovino blend was good. There was a Pinot from Central Otago, and Conrad (unsurprisingly) gravitated toward that.

The last sauce was the complex black mole, the one that takes so many ingredients and so much practice. Good gosh were these sauces tasty! And it was with this last one that the lush Spanish red made an excellent match. I still was trying everything with that Riesling anyway.

So that was six wines with savoury pairings. We were then given a flute and glass so that we could have a sparkling and a still dessert wine. We were introduced to the restaurant’s pastry chef, Jennifer, and served two small desserts. Now let me digress here. For a long while I thought desserts at Frontera and Topolobampo were nice. Not super. Just nice. I didn’t often think to order them. In recent times, though, I’d noted a change, and it has to be thanks to Jennifer, who has been there about three years. Desserts are now something I keenly look forward to at the restaurant, and the small samples highlighted why. A lively, slightly tart fruit soup with mango sorbet floating in it? A chocolate cake layered with a crème fraiche buttercream, then served with strawberries and piloncillo ice cream?

Oh yes, yes please. The sparkling wine worked well with both, though I preferred the still dessert wine with the cake. Either way, though, we all won.

And then it was 7:30 and time to head downstairs, somehow needing to honour our reservation and have a bit of dinner!

Frontera Grill recently overhauled its menu, rather dramatically, and it now features a number of small plates. That was a welcome change given how we’d already consumed so well upstairs. Conrad and I ordered a bottle of a Pinot while others started off with cocktails – two other couples ordered wines eventually, and the six of us shared pours quite happily. Conrad and I also decided to order three small plates between us. We sought Jill’s advice based on our wine, and from among so many enticing possibilities, we got some good options.

• Chicken in Wild Ramp Crema: Wood-grilled Gunthorp chicken breast, local asparagus, roasted fingerling potatoes, wild ramp crema. Crispy epazote.
• Duck Carnitas Queso Fundido:
  
  Otter Creek organic cheddar, duck leg carnitas, grilled knob onions, pickled jalapenos & vegetables
• Molotes:
  
  Corn-masa "torpedos" filled with grilled woodland mushrooms, homemade ricotta, roasted poblano chiles & epazote. Spicy avocado-tomatillo salsa, Nick's watercress, anejo cheese.

He and I also ordered one dessert, but again shared with the others who had ordered dessert, too. Among us we had the

• Tres Leches de Coco:
  
  Coconut tres leches cake, honey Manila mango sorbet, coconut crunch, mango salsa with Bayless Garden herbs.
• Tartaleta de Chocolate Oaxaqueno:
  
  Oaxacan chocolate tart, toasted mezcal meringue, bittersweet chocolate-raspberry ice cream.
• And (of course, because custard is a magic ingredient for me) Duo de Flanes:
  
  A duo of caramel custards: classic Mexican vanilla bean & Gentle Breezes honey with Bayless Garden lemon verbena. Honey-poached apricot & honeycomb candy.

No further wine by this time, and though I was tempted to have some decaf to finish the evening, I refrained. Instead, we wound down, and by 10:30 were in a cab home, ready to drink a good bunch of water before bed and anticipating a slow morning today!

Conrad and I opted not to go to the foundation dinner this June because we’re a little overwhelmed by so much else on our schedules. A shame. Last night was so much fun, so very worth doing. Ah well. Perhaps one day we can make it back to the Library Room for a private dining experience to remember.

Dinner Like No Other

I should be in bed already - a late night last night after a big big dinner (with wine pairings and more to drink) and an early morning today to go to the gym. I will be glad of sleeping in this coming Sunday, I think.

Enough griping, though - on to the food discussion.

I love Frontera Grill (and Topolobampo and even the new place at O'Hare, but I've yet to get to Xoco). Love it. Conrad is with me on this, and you can be sure that at the wedding reception one of the tables will named for Frontera. And Yoshi's, of course. But definitely a Frontera. For several years now - the entire time they've staged it? - we've attended the Frontera Farmer Foundation dinner. The 2011 edition was last night.

A Dinner Like No Other is how they bill it, and this year it was a clever homage to Chicago neighbourhoods. Great idea! A Frontera spin on some of the foods found around town. The menu promised much... and delivered.

Conrad and I arrived in time to line up outside for the opening, and as we made the end of the queue, Jill, the sommelier, came outside. She was exhausted from a long day and much hard work on the event, and we were sorry not to enjoy her company that night. We'll make up for that, as I'll explain in a bit. Susan and Andrew were right behind us - they're part of a group of Saturday lunch regulars who have taken us under wing and with whom we've enjoyed this dinner (and others) several times now. A fine group, and who better to dine with?



Bob was the ringleader, and we all split up as couples so that we could mix well. I found myself between Sue and Glen (down from Milwaukee) and across from Susan. Easy, fun conversation all night long. At various points one or two of us (we were 9 in total) would go patrol the silent auction, so there were plenty of opportunities for chat with others. More on the silent auction in a bit.

The food. A confession: I ate meat. I'd really been trying not to. I found through the cleanse that I really feel better confining myself to fish and occasional poultry. I'm trying to eat a little healthier. Last night, though, was a set menu with wine pairings. No beef, happily - that's the worst on my system. Instead, I just ate it all, made no fuss, and felt off this morning. Ah well.

We were greeted with a strawberry-rhubarb margarita, an excellent cocktail, a great start.

The amuse was an homage to Greektown: mini lamb "gyros".

First course: Thai fried chicken, in honour of Argyle Street. Served with a local beer, the Goose Island Matilda. Ah, that crispy skin! A bit of zing. Mmmm...

Next: homemade bratwurst as a spin on the Lincoln Square fare. I was taken with the creamy chipotle mustard most of all. That's not a dig at the rest of the late, merely an appreciation for the condiment. Served with a delicious 2009 August Kesseler "R" Riesling Kabinett.

The fish course was the best. I honestly think Frontera does fish better than anywhere in town. Garlic marinated Alaskan halibut with canneloni. An homage to the Italian neighbourhood on Taylor Street. The wine was fine but the least remarkable of them all, a 2009 Domaine de Bernier Chardonnay.

The meat course was roasted suckling pig on a beautiful mound of Iroquois white corn grits. I admit, the pork was so tender. This tribute to a corner on the south side was paired with a South African red, the 2010 Boekenhoutskloof "The Wolftrap" Franschhoek valley. Lovely. I managed to score an extra pour of that.

Dessert was a lemony chess pie with strawberry preserves and a remarkable ice cream: hoja santa-vanilla bean. In honour of Chicago diners, a nice touch. Instead of a dessert wine, there was a lemon cordial made with tequila na infused with basil and hoja santa.

And then we enjoyed some decaf.

We did not leave hungry, that's for sure. We left with a goodie bag, though, and better still, two silent auction prizes. As a table, we successfully bid on a wine pairing class with Jill. Hooray! I can't wait for that one. And as for the other, well, a present for Conrad from me. Of course it's not a surprise. Of course I'll enjoy it with him. A 1.5 L bottle of a Central Otago Pinot Noir. Not inexpensive, but isn't he worth it?

We were giddy boys in the cab ride home, I have to say. June 2012 - what will that dinner like no other bring us?

(all of the photos from last night are on Flickr)

wine pairing dinner

Following the overindulgent evening at Nightwood this past weekend, we took a few nights off, more or less, dining a little bit lighter and more simply. Back to that again after last night. Maybe back to that for a good little while to come.

I am an unabashed fan of Frontera Grill and Topolobampo, and the yearly series of late winter/early spring wine pairing dinners are an especially good reason for us to dine there. Last night was the first of this year's (we also have reservations for the April dinner), and as usual, it was really something. Here's a rundown of the evening that was:

• a cooking demo upstairs in the test kitchen. Rick Bayless showing us how to make achiote shrimp.
  I am firmly of the opinion that the man is an excellent teacher, and even though I have some reasonable knowledge of Mexican food, I come away from these demos having learned new things. Also, we all get to sip darn good margaritas while we watch and listen. And then a small serving of the shrimp for each of us before heading down to the Morales Room for the meal.
• wines from Bethel Heights Vineyard in Oregon. The Casteel sisters were in attendance to talk about the wines and meet the guests. Our favourite? The Chardonnay paired with the second course. We asked Jill for more at the end of the night and were thrilled to be given some.
• the first course, ceviche verde. Sashimi-grade Hawaiian bigeye tuna tossed with avocado, jicama, charred fennel, cucumber, lime, cilantro, and roasted garlic. Bayless garden Ruby Streaks radish micron, pinenut crunch. Quite good, with the crunch being most memorable (which is an odd thing to say, but I did like it!).
• the second course, pampano en mole verde. Garlic-marinated pompano served with classic green pumpkinseed mole. Enchilada of hoja santa-flavoured mashed potato, grilled frisee, crispy kale. I want buckets of that sauce, and I'd love some eggs with it. Or a bath. Conrad and I agreed that it was our favourite pairing.
• the third course, puerco en salsa de pasilla y huitlacoche. Adobo-marinated pork with full-flavoured sauce of pasillas and huitlacoche. Iroquois white corn torta, grilled green beans, crispy black trumpet mushrooms. HUITLACOCHE! YES!!! Another sauce I want buckets of, thank you.
• the dessert, pastel de chocolate y naranja rosa. Gooey clourless chocolate cake layered with dark chocolate-lemongrass crema and blood orange "curd". Candied and fresh blood oranges, caramelized cocoa nibs. I used to like-not-love the desserts at Frontera, but for a couple of years now I've been blown away by them, and this was the case last night.

Other things that were great about last night included the company. RAD was next to me, and there were other familiar faces from past dinners at the table. We had a terrific time and good conversation.





And then there's Jill. I don't think I've sung her praises on the blog in a very long time, and that's just wrong. Jill remains one of our favourite people, and a trip to Frontera means we get to talk with her a bit. Plus, frankly, she looked gorgeous in that patterned blouse last night. (that's her, standing behind our table - the only decent photo I had of her)

So cheers, here's to my expanding waistline and my lack of self-discipline. It's a bean, cauliflower, and tomato soup for us tonight for dinner, and I intend to get to a rare (for me) Thursday night swim practice to atone for overdoing it midweek.

But oh man, it really really was worth it...

(more photos from last night are up on Flickr!)