As you can tell from even the most cursory glance at this blog, dining out has been a very very big part of my life. Of our lives. We can go back decades to when I cooked at Don Diego's for a handful of years in between undergrad and grad school. We can attribute things to my love for food and exploring it. And we can credit the memories we've made that are set in restaurants and in dining situations. For me and Conrad, the most seminal food and hospitality thing remains Sunday night at Yoshi's.
Yoshi's Cafe was a mainstay of Boystown in Chicago. When I moved to Chicago in August 2000, I spent a handful of days staying with Medgar at his place across the street, not even suspecting that the fancy and (for me and him at the time) pricey restaurant would become a second home for me (and Conrad) within years. It took at least a few months of dating Conrad for him to let me into his world there, and I was embraced. We went to Yoshi's every Sunday night, or so it seemed. We missed an occasional one, we sometimes showed up for Sunday brunch or a different night. But Sunday at the bar was our regular thing, and we loved it. We did all of our major and minor celebrations there. And we got to know the other regulars as friends as well as Yoshi and Nobuko.
But 2013 happened. Conrad and I moved away. Oh, sure, we came back, but within a few years, Yoshi had passed away. Nobuko kept the restaurant going, but it struggled through Covid, and in late 2021, she closed it and sold the business and property. Yoshi's was no longer. The friendships remained.
Conrad and I reached out to Nobuko and to Laura and Michael, friends who were regulars at the bar with us, and asked the to join us for dinner while we were in town at the end of last month. They readily agreed and, even better, suggested that we go to SHŌ Omakase
where Nobuko's daughter, Mari, is the executive chef. Heck yes, we said. Mari has followed in her father's footsteps and, arguably, surpassed him, earning a Michelin star at a previous restaurant. I was greatly looking forward to seeing our friends and to enjoy her food equally.
We all arrived at nearly the same time, and before heading to our table, we had a drink each at the bar in the front of the restaurant. The staff all knew Nobuko well and greeted her warmly. That was so nice to see. We were taken back to the small dining room, seated, and the meal began. Nobuko ordered wine for us - and, in fact, she treated us to the entire meal, for which we are grateful - and then, as we chatted and got caught up, the food came out. And oh, what food it was!
A little cone with salmon roe, beautifully presented, fresh and light.
Small bites: Okonomiyaki croquettes and milk bread teas sandwiches with Japanese egg salad. Those sandwiches were such a delight.
Sea bream with fennel and strawberry.
Green pea chawanmushi with pancetta to be dunked in. Oh, I loved this one.
Nigiri: Alaskan king crab, sea trout, and chu-toro (tuna).
There was also a raw oyster,
and the chu-toro and the raw oyster were a tribute to Yoshi's tuna tartare with oyster shooter. Conrad cried at this point, he was so moved and enjoying it all so much. There was also some urchin served.
More nigiri: sea eel and lamb.
Lamb!! What a surprise that was, and how very good. Oh, and with all the nigiri, we each had a plate of citrus maple leaves to use as edible wraps,
and I was so very intrigued and delighted with those!
A small break in the service for some omelet, but not the rolled omelet we all know. Silkier. Excellent.
Somen
with caramelized soy milk broth.
THIS! Hands down the best thing I ate in Chicago, and I ate VERY well while I was there. I loved that broth so much.
Strawberry soft serve with buttermilk shave ice, condensed milk, and lemon verbena.
More fresh and light flavours to cap the meal. But wait...
Mignardises.
Mari has a background in pastry and breakfast, so we should have expected something so nice.
And then... compressed pineapple and (best of all!) carbonated cherries.
Such a joyful end to the meal.
I really did eat so well in Chicago, but take a situation where we know the chef and we're dining with two such dear friends, and add in terrific food and drink, and, well... How could this not be the best of our time in Chicago. Oh, and it seems we might all be on vacation next spring at the same time in Japan. The plotting is starting.
Mari is doing fantastic work, and I do wish her dad could be retired and coming to enjoy her food. Not to be, alas. But we kept the spirit of sharing great food and drink and conversation with friends alive that night, and I am so happy we got that. An exceptional meal, and one to remember.
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