dinner at L'Espalier

Before I really start flagging, badly, let me try to get a blog entry up. And then crash. Ah insomnia. I need to keep an emergency supply of sleep aids on hand, perhaps, though I dislike the idea of drugging myself to sleep.

In any case, let's talk dinner, and a very good meal (I've had a couple, in fact) in Boston. Last night it was L'Espalier. I wish I had brought a far better camera.

Dinner last night was a return to my tradition of dining out at conference with RAD, and a further return to dining with Mary Augusta and her husband George. RAD, Mary Augusta, and I had all served on a particular committee together, and it was through that and running into each other at nicer restaurants that we first decided - in DC - to dine together. A fine meal in Alexandria that time. I'm the only one of the three of us on that committee now, though, and with the change to the scheduling of the conferences, we have had to shift from a Tuesday night meal to earlier in the extended weekend. Sunday it was, and while it meant missing a social, it also meant a very very very good time and food.

A side note - only an iPhone with me to take photos, and low restaurant lighting. Not that I'd change that. It's a remarkable room, and the entry by elevator was really sleek. Also (TK!): a coat check!

Alright then, a glass of Champagne in front of me, and after a little gougere and a smoked salmon stack as a pre-amuse bouche, out came the amuse bouche, a witty little seafood salad.Why witty? It had elbow macaroni in it, an homage to the tuna casseroles and salads we all grew up with.

And then there was another amuse. George had been kind of keen on a particular menu item because of the shrimp potstickers that came with it. He then decided on a different dish, but lo, a plate of potstickers came by. Well alright then, you're earning a good tip!

We were having the winter prix fixe, so three courses. Up first for me was breakfast. Really, it was. A coddled egg, slow cooked for hours (!!) and served atop a toast and that atop a hash of Indian spiced pork and potatoes. Oh, I was tempted by the sweetbreads, but the egg sounded so offbeat and fun. I went for it. The sommelier, meanwhile, had recommended an interesting white wine to pair with our appetizers, the L'Oustal Blanc Naick 6 from the south of France. Fragrant, sweet-scented, but soft, subtle, not acidic. I loved it, and I loved it with my food.

Dinner. I had no idea mine would be the one with the full production. I felt rather spoiled, happily so. A bowl was set in front of me. In it were lentils du Puy and baby turnip halves, each topped with a slice of black truffle. Then the server removed pieces of Guinea hen from a hot pot he carried, adorning the meat with the juices. Oh wow, this was good. The wine, meanwhile? Another excellent recommendation. Well, that and a treat. You see, I had noted a modestly priced Otago Pinot, the Mt. Difficulty Roaring Meg, and mentioned it. It wasn't where the sommelier was leaning, but she offered to bring the bottle, pour us each a little so the others could taste it. And she sold us on the French red. The Roaring Meg was delicious, certainly. The French wine (I wish I could remember it) was a better match. No complaints from me.

Ah, but there's more. Dessert. How about this for an interesting sounding one: Barley and tea creamy custard with mango croquant and lime hibiscus; red bean ice cream. Very. Good. the plating of the long strips and curls was really something as well. Ah, heaven. A cup of decaf, and I had one of the little sweets offered after that (blood orange gelee atop a milk gelee).

At the end of the meal, the sommelier shook all of our hands and asked our names. She and the other staff were an incredible enhancement to the evening, and I am very sorry I didn't have Conrad along. Well, another time. I hope.

comforts of "home"

We're home early from dinner tonight. Conrad has a flight at about 7 tomorrow morning, so we'll be up and at 'em a little after 4. I used to not bat an eyelash over that, but weeks of holiday living have me less than enthused. It won't be until after Midwinter that I can get my life/exercise routine established for a period of time. Ah well.

Sunday, as any reader of this blog knows, means Yoshi's most of the time. Ahhhh. Sometimes I don't want to cook, and so it's a relief. Sometimes I don't mind cooking, but I want something other than what I make, and so it's a different relief. In any case, it's "home". Doubly so this evening as a favourite made its annual winter reappearance on the menu: cassoulet.

In fact, we weren't just at dinner to feed ourselves. It's been a rough holiday season for the Yoshi's family with our friend and dining companion Scott dying on Christmas and then another friend and dining companion, Donna, dying on NYE. I think we're all waiting for the third to come, a little anxious. Tonight about two-dozen of us gathered at Yoshi's to celebrate Donna. Alas, Conrad and I had to eat early and fast.

The food, as always, was good, of course, but there's a special comfort in old favourites on an occasion like this. Radicchio salad shared to start. The cassoulet for dinner. A Cotes du Rhone. I wish we could have stayed and chatted more, but we shared some photos of Donna and did get a chance to reminisce a little. And really, isn't that what home is about? Friends, food, family, memories. This blog is often about dinners at coat-check restaurants (to use a description that I joke about with one friend), but, in fact, it's a darn good way for me to realize what a terrific life I do have.

In short: thanks.

:-)

no, it doesn't really fit in with New Year's resolutions, does it

Not that I make resolutions, no. I tell myself I work to improve myself throughout the year and make changes when I feel they are warranted. Which is never, of course. Perfection or laziness, either excuse works.

In any case, the BBQ pork platter

at the Carolina Brewery should NOT be considered a step on the road back to high school reunion fitness/weight. At least I was back in the pool this morning, I suppose...

what I crave

I write this on Thursday night, but I am thinking ahead to Friday morning and a quick dash to Starbucks before heading off to a symposium at SILS.

Now make no mistake: I like Starbucks. I do not revile it for being a big corporation. I think their coffee (make mine a whole milk misto) is fine. It will be fine in the AM.

But this, friends, is what I crave: coffee from Safari. Strong, milky, a small spoonful of brown sugar stirred in, a pretty design on top.

Ah, to be back in Vancouver. I know, I whine too much, I am sorry.

but really...

... do go read Chris' blog.



If not, well, he'll either gore you or eat your soul, I can't quite tell which.

where in the world is Peter.Food.Travel.Musings?

In North Carolina, of course!

Out in Chapel Hill for a few days, a follow up to last June's work trip. Nice to be back, but hey, wasn't it supposed to be warm down here in the Deep South?

No matter, at least they trapped us library folk in a handsome space, formerly a church, I assume.


Back to Chicago by dinnertime tomorrow, assuming the weather cooperates!

brunch at Havana Restaurant

It was very late yesterday morning when we got up. Those who know me well will scoff. Late for me usually means 6:30. Oh no, not yesterday. I think it was about 10 when we made it over to Safari Cafe for a quick one, and I was not even remotely hungry following such a big meal the night before.

Still, brunch plans were afoot, and we wanted to see Giuseppe. Despite pouring rain, we got in the car and headed for Commercial Drive. Destination: Havana Restaurant.

Giuseppe was a bit late - who can blame anyone yesterday - but he did bring along a friend who was new to us. I hope I remember the name, but I could swear it was Jonathan. The French Canadian accent and the Repentigny roots give me pause on that name, but no matter - he was also excellent brunch company.

We tucked into tostones all together, and I opted for shrimp and avocado eggs Benedict with salad only. It's been 4 and a half years since our only meal at Havana, and it is back on our radar now, happily.

Meanwhile, brunch conversation flowed all over, easily.
It's always a treat to see Giuseppe, after all.

Brunch done and no other set plans to undertake, Conrad and I set out for a bit of a drive around Stanley Park. It was unusual weather - normally rain in Vancouver seems light but constant. Yesterday it was heavy, insistent. We paused and took quick photos from the car, rolling up the windows before we could get too wet. But then, partway around the park and over near a view of Lions Gate Bridge, we saw a rainbow falling onto the North Shore
. And wait, a patch of blue. For a minute or two, we thought it might turn out to be a lovely end of the afternoon.

Well, no. In fact, it's wet and grey again this morning. Of course. I was delighted, however, to see that the weather did not seem to dim enthusiasm for yesterday's Polar Bear swim in English Bay.



We drove past as people were leaving, though a few brave/foolhardy souls still hooted and splashed in the brisk ocean water.

lamb to start the year

Todd, for one, will be dismayed or horrified or even resigned to all this by now: tender baby animal for a nice dinner at our place. Easy to cook, tasty to eat. Sorry TK. Everyone else, here's the meal:

I originally had it in mind that I would braise lamb shanks for dinner, then instead of cooking a couple of veg and reducing the braising liquid, I would degrease the liquid and use it as a rich broth for a soup-like serving in which the shank would rest. A fine idea, I think (and bread would have helped a lot), but one key thing got in the way. Marie, beloved sister, has no big soup bowls that would fit the serving. Not so far as I could tell from rooting around in her cupboard.

Small change of plan.

:-)

Not a big deal, in the end. I went back to the notion of reducing the liquid and serving some veg, but tweaked it some. For starters, I cooked pasta for the first time in aeons, making a small pot of Israeli couscous and cooking it in the braising liquid. Then, instead of cooking veggies separately and seasoning them differently, I tossed carrots, leek, and Brussels sprouts into the strained braise, then once done, removed them and kept them warm in a covered casserole dish
with the lamb shanks. Only then did I reduce the liquid
to a sauce that I spooned over the vegetables and meat.

We ate a Marie's new table, the meat and veg in the middle for us to serve ourselves from, family style,
sipping a light-bodied BC Pinot Noir and moving on to some locally made chocolates for dessert. More Ab Fab - a continuation of sorts from the night before - entertained us. The three of us had quite a pleasant dinner all in all, and I think the lamb, for all the little changes of plan, ended up a better meal than the salmon the night before.

NYE dinner with Chris

I think, friends, I am still recovering. I also think, friends, that I need to get my lardy butt back to the gym and pool and try to recover some semblance of good shape and physical health.

Ah, but where are my manners? Happy New Year, one and all!

Niceties out of the way, let's settle down to blogging the dinner last night. Some good things, some less successful. Lots of food. Not too much booze (for me). Plenty of Ab Fab. Ready?

The good:

Conrad. He did many dishes throughout the night and at the end, and he remains as cute in 2010 as ever he was in 2009.

Conrad's martinis. Wetter than usual (2:1 gin to vermouth ratio), but very very tasty.

Oysters. We ate a bit of cheese and some nuts with the martinis, and then, after a while, launched into the first course I cooked. Cornmeal crusted oysters which, if anyone from the restaurant days reads this, will be recognizable as a dimly recollected re-creation of a recipe from the first Bobby Flay cookbook. Tasty, and a simple presentation that turned out well - I put this plate on a lazy Susan in the middle of the table, and the three of us served ourselves from that communal dish.

Chris. Awesome company. Go read his blog already - it's a hoot!



Ab Fab. What better way for three gay men to pass the night than with food, booze, and 7 episodes of Ab Fab on DVD. I hope we watch a few more tonight!

The less successful:

The salmon. In fact, I think the coho worked better than the sockeye I used at Christmas. Also, the pastry turned out better. Also, I preferred the dill and mustard butter I used in place of the currant and candied ginger butter from the first time. Heck, it tasted great. But I served it too large (and now I think I should try making individual salmon pastry packages), the lentils were kinda meh, and the red chard didn't get tender enough.

The sad:

Christmas. It's over. The tree is still up here, and sometime around our dinner of oven-braised lamb shanks we will open a few last presents. But, it's all done, and now we must wait about 275 more days until it's appropriate to play the Christmas music again. Small wonder the heavy downpour here today fit my mood. Ah well.

return to the Motherland

OK, I admit, it's not Conrad's motherland, though he is from The UP, so he may as well be Canadian, or so I occasionally tease him. And he does have Canadian residency status, so it's sort of the Motherland for him that way.

In any case, we're in Vancouver, set to ring in the New Year here. Wet, cool. Typical Vancouver. Good to be back.

And better still, by happy chance we timed our visit for after Adam, the owner/operator of our favourite independent coffee shop, came back from a week away on vacation. Hooray. The man makes great coffee - reminiscent of the flat whites we enjoyed often on the New Zealand trips - and he spoils us further by making us variations on egg sandwiches and omelets. We could sit here for hours (and the free wireless doesn't hurt either).

But, eventually, we'll get our real day going with an appointment downtown, then meeting up with family members who are coming down from the Sunshine Coast, then dinner at the home of friends. A last hurrah for 2009, successfully underway!